I think the first thing to say about the RadiancePro is that it’s bloody expensive. If you’re in the US, it will probably cost more than the television does. If you’re in the UK, it may cost as much as double the price of the TV.
Without wishing to sound like a dick (but still sounding like one, despite my best efforts ) if you’re going to spend that kind of money on a device, I think you need to have a pretty clear idea of exactly what you think it’s going to do for you; and from the way you’re talking about it, I’m not sure you have.
Would I buy one again? Probably not, no. Not unless I had a lot more money than I now have, anyway.
I have a strong feeling Lumagen bit off more than they could chew with the RadiancePro. It was launched in mid 2015; here we are in Autumn 2018, and the software for it is still in beta - more than three years later, and there are still quite basic features that are missing or incomplete.
It still can’t do 60Hz->24Hz conversion, for example, and the deinterlacing isn’t that great (no diagonal filtering when deinterlacing video-mode material) - my Oppo 105D blu ray player typically does a better job of that.
It does have its uses, but they tend to be rather specialised, and not something a typical viewer would need. In terms of what I use it for, I guess there are four things:
1: When watching standard-definition video, I prefer not to watch it zoomed up to full-screen, but instead to display it in a smaller window. On a 4K TV, for example, watching a British DVD with a 4:3 aspect ratio, I’ll watch that in a 1536x1152 window. With some sources, that can be tricky to do without something like a Lumagen processor in the middle. However, I seem to be the only person on the planet who does this!
2: The quality of Lumagen’s upscaling is very good, but it’s important not to oversell that. Most TVs these days upscale pretty well by themselves - any TV will make 1080p upscaled to 4K look good; and even with the best upscaling possible, standard definition video blown up to a 65" screen will still look like crap. (Hence why I watch it windowed).
If I were to set up two identically calibrated TVs side by side, and play the same movie on both, one with the TV upscaling and one with the Lumagen doing it, you’d probably be able to see a difference between them, but it would be very subtle. If I were to set up a single TV, send you out of the room, start the movie, then ask you to come back in and see if you could tell from the picture whether it was the Lumagen upscaling or the TV, you definitely wouldn’t be able to tell.
If you’re using a projector, the difference in upscaling quality will be a little more visible, but still subtle.
3: A partial exception to what I just said is that hardly any media player or disk player upscales NTSC DVDs correctly. For reasons that are rather complicated (but which I can explain if you really care!) they nearly always do it in a way which results in slightly over-saturated colours. The RadiancePro is capable of correcting for that.
4: The RadiancePro has a thing called a 3D Look Up Table (LUT) which helps with video calibration. Normally when you calibrate a TV, you set the greyscale correctly, then set the hue and saturation of the colours, meaning you’re looking at maybe 24 to 30 specific colours and setting those exactly right - but across the rest of the colour space, there will be some small errors.
The RadiancePro is able to maintain a table of nearly 5000 calibration points, and modify the signal it sends to the TV to get the calibration exactly right. (So, for example, if a particular pixel is supposed to be red 100, green 150, blue 200, but it knows that in that part of the colour space the TV tends to slightly over-emphasise blue, it might send red 100, green 150, blue 198 instead, and thus get exactly the right amount of red, green and blue light produced by the pixel on the screen).
Two things to note here: i) someone like you or I has no chance at all of setting this up correctly, so factor in the cost of hiring a professional calibrator to do it for you. ii) Some high-end TVs these days have their own built-in 3D LUT function which renders the Lumagen’s more or less redundant.
There are a couple of other things the RadiancePro can do that might be of interest with certain projectors. For example, if you want to use an anamorphic lens for films with 2.35:1 aspect ratio, you can have the RPro scale the image vertically to fill a whole 16:9 frame, then have the lens correct the aspect ratio - that gives you better brightness than just zooming up the letterboxed image.
In terms of choosing a media player, the first thing to say is that, in my view, no media player currently on the market is really fit for purpose. The Vero 4K+ has the potential to be quite a good player for local streaming but it isn’t really finished yet. If you want something to play Netflix, Amazon Video, etc. it is definitely the wrong choice.
The Apple TV 4K is one of the best devices for Internet streaming services like Netflix, Amazon, etc. except that it can’t play 4K/HDR stuff on YouTube. It does a pretty good job of streaming videos across the LAN as well, but has one major weakness: it isn’t able to bitstream HD audio formats, meaning that it can’t handle Dolby Atmos or DTS:X sound-tracks correctly, and you lose the height channel.
The ATV4K is able to handle Atmos on streamed services like Netflix, but not on blu ray rips - the Vero 4K+ wins there. And, and as @wrxtasy has already explained, while it can handle Dolby Vision on Netflix, Vudu, etc. it can’t do that on blu ray rips - no media player currently on the market can. Dolby Vision disks need to be played directly, not ripped.
In terms of use with a RadiancePro, the Vero 4K+ currently can’t output standard definition video at native resolution. (If I understand Sam correctly, this may be possible with Kodi Leia in the future). The ATV4K can output native SD resolution, but (I think) doesn’t switch resolution automatically to match the video being played, while the Vero 4K+ can switch between 4K and 1080p without you having to change it manually.
The RadiancePro cannot handle Dolby Vision, and never will be able to - it can’t even pass the signal through - which makes cabling rather annoying: if a given media player or disk player is producing a Dolby Vision signal, you need to send that directly to the TV (or via the AVR if it’s compatible); the rest of the time you need the signal to go to the RadiancePro first. That’s not easy to wire up.