I’m a bit unhappy with it. It can barely keep the plug.
Any hack how to make it a stable connection?
Thanky
Mine is quite snug and we’ve had no other complaints previously. Are you sure the cable is not damaged at all?
it’s the 2nd cable I try, brand new. I think there’s an issue with the clamp, it’s either too high or too low in my case. The part at the shounbar sits snug
Can you show a photo of your cable and your socket?
The same happened to you as it did to me… The flap/door of the S/PDIF Toslink socket broke off. You have to replace the door/flap for any plug to stay in the socket again. Without it, no plug will stay in anymore. Look for a spare Toslink socket with a flap/door to solder on at a store where you can buy such small electronic spare parts. You can take out the flap/door of one of those spare sockets and replace the Vero 4k’s one with that. It worked for me, but it’s not ideal that the flap/door tends to break off in the first place.
Already contacted @sam_nazarko about this and reported my experience. Toslink sockets with flaps/doors that are keeping the plugs in at the same time are quite easy to break it seems. 
oh, there never was a flap, at least I don’t remember.
Or at least there should’ve been.
If you’d want to replace the flap yourself, here is the link to the socket I got and used to replace my Vero 4k’s flap (it’s a German internet shop):
That one definitely fits. Maybe you can find the same in your area from some shop. You’d have to open up the socket a bit and then you can take out the flap. Fitting it into the Vero’s socket is a bit tricky, but it easy enough.
1 Like
so how’s this done? Any special tools you need?
I just used a small carpet knife and some tweezers. Use the knife to get between the flap and the socket’s frame, then the flap should come out with a little pressure applied against the socket’s frame. Getting the flap into the Vero 4k’s socket is the tricky part. You have to put one of the two hinge pins in place, keep the flap from falling into the socket and at the same time push the second hinge pin into its place. It’s kind of self-explanatory as soon as you have the whole thing in front of you…
The important thing is that the small metal thing inside the socket has to be pressed below the bottom part of the flap at the end - this is pushing the flap back into place as soon as a plug is removed. For me, this part has become a bit clunky after the whole operation. So, the flap sometimes doesn’t move back into the closed position properly (a few pushes with the finger tip solve that). But it’s ok as a plug stays in again and it’s better than no flap - or waiting for a return to Sam and a replacement.
But maybe you’d prefer to consult with @sam_nazarko first to talk about a replacement. I guess, both is good. Sam is aware of the issue and should be able to help, I guess.
oh my, that sounds cumbersome - thanks anyway.
I thought so first, too, when I read about this method in another forum… But before sending my Vero 4k back to Sam I wanted to try this. I’m nearly never using the Toslink socket, but still I wanted it to work, if needed.
So, don’t hesitate. It’s sounds cumbersome, but it isn’t. The repair process was done within about 2 mins… 
And it did cost me less than 5 bucks.
The door should definitely have been intact before shipping. It wouldn’t pass visual inspection otherwise.
Since March we take photos of every order before it ships
If you give me your order # I can pull photos from your order before dispatch. We can replace the unit under warranty. Ideally we’d want to receive the cable you used as well, as the door should be pretty robust and it would be good to know how it ended up broken. I do a lot of testing with my demo units, which means fiddling with connectors probably two or three times a day. I suspect customers have a more static configuration.
Sam
sent a private message
Update: I might be trying the DIY approach mentioned by @Chillbo. Sending it in is to expensive if it turns out that the cable or me broke the door