New Vero V user some questions on video and remote etc

Hi. I got my Vero V yesterday and have tried it for a bit. I have some questions thou.

-Do I need to setup the video in any special way for DV tonemapping to work?

-On the same note, if I play a movie with both DV and HDR fallback, will DV with tonemapping still be prioritized over the HDR fallback? I understand the DV tonemapping should look better than standard HDR fallback? Are there anyway to tell which is which?

-Audio passthrough seem to work perfect with both DTS-HD and Atmos, very good.

-I’m running some video content from a USB disk. How do I safely remove it?

-I understand there’s no way but to power cycle if I need to start the Vero V from a full shutdown, so I should use suspend instead. Are there any way to have the box suspend with a remote button or so?

-I’m not overy fond of the remote. It’s fairly snappy, but it tend to miss presses every now and then. Are there anything I can do to improve it?

-The blue light on the front is very strong. Is it safe to subdue it a bit with IR covers? Does it affect in a negative way?

I don’t mean to come across as complaining - the overall impression is very positive. The sample video I watched (not sure if it was DV or HDR thou) looked very good with popping reds and greens. :slight_smile:

It’ll just do its thing :+1:t2:

You go to the directory above where you find your USB drive and open the context menu (three lines on the OSMC remote or c key on a keyboard). There you’ll find the option to safely remove the drive.

One for @sam_nazarko

There’s no need to suspend or power down the Vero V. It’s designed as a low power always-on device. But if you’d still like to send it into suspend mode with a button press, @darwindesign will know how to do this.

No harm in doing so :+1:t2:

Enjoy your new device!

1 Like

For this type of video DV tone-mapping can’t be applied. So you understand incorrectly! :slight_smile: DV Videos where there isn’t an HDR fallback layer (meaning DV profile 5, as used by streaming providers) can be converted to HDR10 on the fly; but where there is a fallback layer (DV profile 7, as used on UHD blu ray discs) it will simply output that.

You can block the LED (remote is RF) but it should only be on during suspend mode. Maybe we should make that configurable.

Are you using a USB3 drive? Do things improve with the drive in the USB2 port?


darwindesign? Are there some coding involved?

Will test USB2.0 when I get home from work.

So if there’s a HDR fallback in a DV movie, the fallback HDR will always be used? The DV tonemapping will only be used if there’s no HDR fallback so to speak?

If so, that’s perfectly acceptable behavior. As I said, the video I watched looked stunning.

1 Like

Correct. As explained in some detail in the thread linked to :+1:t2:

Thanks. I just read it. :slight_smile:

Yeah. I mean, it’s not like there’s anything else you could reasonably do. The output has to be in HDR10 format (or SDR for displays that don’t support HDR). That means per-scene DV metadata can’t be included in the output. And dynamic metadata is basically all that the DV video layer actually contains. Throw that away and the HDR10 video information in the base layer is what’s left. There is nothing to tone-map (unless you need to convert HDR to SDR).

The reason you can’t do that for a single-layer profile 5 video (of the sort used by streaming providers) is because there is no HDR10 video data present - the video data uses a different colour space. To get the colours looking correct you have to translate that into HDR10 format. That is what the new tone-mapping function does.

I’ll keep asking stuff…

The system sets itself back to Swedish even thou I set english.

Also, I can’t find my neteork shares at all.

Not really coding, but Chillbo tagged me as keymapping is a topic that I’m overly familiar with. The option exists for a great deal of customization with how the OSMC remote acts. I’d suggest to start with the guide I wrote and if you require assistance from there I’d suggest to ask with specific details on how you would want the remote to act (dedicated button or only in some screens and which button etc.) The guide is here…

But with that being said if you can configure suspend to happen automatically in settings>system>power savings> and you can configure your CEC settings to allow power on and off which is keymapped to the home button.

And also I personally would recommend not to concern yourself greatly about power usage. The topic of vampire power (or whatever someone would choose to call it) has been covered multiple times over the years and the long and short of it is that your looking at something like three watts of usage from either a a Vero or a Pi and that just isn’t very much.

Try setting it and then use the back button instead of the home button to exit the settings screen and then go to power and exit and see if that makes it stick.

More information would lead to a better answer but I’d venture a guess that if you went to settings>media>library>videos>add videos>browse>add a network location> and then just filled out the protocol, device name/ip, and credentials (if applicable), and then clicked “OK”, and then selected the new location showing in that browse screen it dropped you back to, then it may get you to where you want to be.

If LED light would be configurible it would be great… I also make some stick tape on it… If it would be possible to make LED light allways OFF as setting it would be for me win…

But normaly it should be settings as:
Standby ON (OFF on powered)
Standby OFF (ON on powered)
Allways OFF

I got pretty much everything answered and solved here. Thanks!

One thing that I experienced thou, the reading of USB drives seem very flaky. Most of the times the Vero V does not even register that I plugged a USB drive in any of the ports. A mix of reboots solves it sometimes. What’s up with that?

How are you powering these drives?

Have you tried another cable?

Standard cable that came with the drive enclosue. Works fine in all other units I tried it on.

Will try another cable.

How are you powering the drive?

USB only.

Are you thinking not enough power?

Would something like this work in theory?

The USB 2.0 port will only provide 0.5A, which won’t be sufficient for a typical spinning drive.
The USB 3.0 port can provide 0.9A output maximum. You could check the drive specifications to see if this is sufficient.

I see. I should’ve thought about this before.

It’s actually a major issue for the moment, but I guess it can be solved be getting a USB drive case with external power?